Everything about the Tokaido Beer brewpub in Kawasaki has an artisanal feel, from the beers to the attention to detail in its design. The brewpub facade is an intricately carved motif of dragonflies and ginko leaves. The interior bar counter directly faces the shiny brewing equipment behind a wall of glass. On the opposing wall is an attractive mural of the Kawasaki cityscape. The handcrafted glass lighting that hangs above the counter adds a touch of class and ambiance.
Owner Katsumasa Iwasawa’s family has run the architectural firm Iwataya Co., Ltd. in the building next door since 1894–the year his great grandfather started the business. In his childhood the neighborhood had been a lively shopping district, but over the last few decades shops were slowly replaced by apartment buildings. For quite some time Iwasawa had been thinking about how he could bring back some of that liveliness. His company had previously used the property where the bar now is for storage and parking, but he wanted to put it to better use–he wanted to create a place that locals could enjoy.
Back in the Edo period (1603-1868) the area was a stop on the Tokaido route that ran from Edo (now Tokyo) to Kyoto. Kawasaki-juku, as it was known, was full of inns and establishments to service travelers. It was also surrounded by fields of wheat. Using the theme of wheat as inspiration, Iwasawa eventually came up with the idea of making a brewpub and the name Tokaido seemed the perfect fit.
Iwasawa had his concept, but didn’t know anything about brewing and began looking for a professional brewer. It was a bit of misfortune that led him to Yokohama native Satoshi Tanoue. Tanoue had started a microbrewery in Kawasaki called Kazakami Beer, but was seriously injured in a traffic accident and couldn’t work for an extended period of time. He was forced to give up on his brewery. Iwasawa had heard his story and sought him out to offer him a job. Due to Tanoue’s knack for making fascinating original recipes, he did have other suitors. But Iwasawa offered him the most desirable situation and the position also allowed him to stay local.
The brewpub opened in November of 2018. Tanoue currently offers a standard lineup of four beers (S, 280ml, ¥650 / M, 385ml, ¥850). Of course, one is a wheat beer called Mugi no Deai. It has an aroma of coriander and orange peel. One of our staff who doesn’t usually drink beer thoroughly enjoyed the Usubeni no Kojitsu, an amber ale with a noticeable strawberry flavor. The other two beers are an IPA named 1623 (the year Kawasaki-juku was established) and an interesting porter, Kuroishikan, with a prominence of herbs and spices. The bar also has a variety of snacks to go with your beers, such as thick cut bacon (¥600), a two-sausage plate (¥650), cucumbers pickled in beer (¥450), smoked nuts (¥350) and smoked raisins (¥300).
Many of the clientele at Tokaido Beer are new to craft beer, so have no worries if you aren’t knowledgeable. Tanoue will provide guidance. The bar is less than 10 minutes walking from either JR or Keikyu Kawasaki stations. It’s a smoke-free environment allowing you to enjoy the aromas of the beers.