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Our “Anaba” series has featured eating and drinking spots that are hard to find, but well worth the effort. What about an “anaba” that’s not only off the beaten track, but only opens twice a week, with just two menu items? That renders it obscure on the continuum of space, time, and food. Judging by the overflow crowd on a Sunday night, however, it’s a winning combination.
Sean Kramer has a way with meatballs. His pop-up, operating out of the Smiley Smile bar in Bashamichi, is his second venture specializing in these tasty spheres. (From 2015 to 2020, he collaborated with Kōichi Katsuki of local brewery Thrashzone at their now defunct Kannai taproom, fittingly named Meatballs.) He presents one flavor per week from a repertoire of about fifteen distinct cuisines: Argentine, Vietnamese, Tex-Mex, Jamaican, and so on. While he once used a takoyaki grill, now he cooks them at home and reheats them in a frying pan. Each is bursting with flavor. Three meatballs cost ¥500, but eight for ¥1000 is more satisfying. There is usually one other menu item. When we visited, that was Cajun tater tots.
A rotating selection of American craft beer is available in cans for ¥1200 and ¥1500, alongside Sapporo and Corona, wine, and lemonade. The bar’s interior is a charming, cluttered cornucopia of late 20th century Americana with matching music. It seats ten, with an outdoor counter for two, but its popularity ensures standing room only.
Sean came to Japan in 1994, and lived in Kyōto for ten years before moving to Yokohama in 2010. The pandemic provided both challenges and opportunities. He says, “My culinary hobby gave me the chance to do something I’ve always wanted to try. Life gives you only so many opportunities, so grab them while you can. Seize the day!” When life gives you meat, make meatballs.