&GRILL

Earlier this autumn, the Italian charcoal-grill restaurant &GRILL opened in the heart of Sakuragicho at the foot of Momijizaka, a crossroads of cultural facilities in Kanagawa, including the Kanagawa Prefectural Music Hall, the Prefectural Library, and the Noh Theater. Chef Masayuki Watanabe honed his skills in Tokyo before spending 15 years at Charcoal Grill Green in Ishikawacho, a competitive dining district. Now, together with his wife Tomoe, a certified sommelier, they have shifted course from their days at Green and are charting a new path with this creative take on Italian cuisine.

On opening the door, you discover an intimate space featuring five counter seats and a few tables. The unfinished concrete walls and partial iron accents exuding an industrial feel are complemented by warm wood tones. A large wine cellar, covering the wall just inside the entrance, primarily showcases Italian wines. Meanwhile, the enticing aroma of charcoal-grilled meat fills the air. 

During our visit, we tried the charcoal-grilled wagyu steak topped with arugula, red onion, and tomato vinegar, as well as tonnarelli pasta with bottarga, a specialty from Rome. The steak was served with May Queen potatoes, which had been aged at a low temperature for two years. This aging process increases the sugar content; the flavor is reminiscent of sweet potatoes, elevating it beyond a mere side dish. The tonnarelli pasta with its firm texture pairs perfectly with the bottarga, creating an indulgent flavor like authentic Italian cuisine. Watanabe plans to leverage his extensive cooking repertoire for the dishes, blending Italian classics with a new, genreless style. He notes he’ll keep the menu flexible, focusing on seasonal ingredients and crafting dishes that reflect the best of each moment.

“Since we’re small, I want this to be a place free of pretension where everyone can enjoy good food and drink to their heart’s content,” says Chef Watanabe. The main act is just beginning, folks!